Who would have guessed that one of Porto’s swankiest hotels was originally designed for a bunch of Catholic clergymen? The Palácio das Cardosas was meant as a monastery for the Loios friars, but (to cut a long story short) ended up being converted into a sumptuous palace by local bigwig Manuel Cardoso da Silva, some time in the nineteenth century.
It’s been a hulking neoclassical presence ever since, dominating the bottom end of central Porto’s key axis: Praça da Liberdade and Avenida dos Aliados. (The building even appears in old paintings at the Soares dos Reis art museum.) And the inside is just as grand: marble and polished wood, crystal and brass, linen napkins, and miles and miles of footstep-swallowing carpet.
So grand an institution is the Intercontinental that it feels as though it’s been here for ages, so it’s a surprise to learn it was only converted into a hotel in 2011 – though that does explain why everything feels fresh as a daisy, with nothing dated or faded. And although the vibe is mostly rich-people chic, a few details – arty photography on the walls, Byredo toiletries in the rooms – lend a hint of curatorial cool.
My room (a Two Storey Suite) was all white wood panelling and dove-grey linen furniture, with plenty of marble and chrome in the bathroom. I had my best sleep in weeks in the extremely comfy bed, with soft sheets and just-right pillows (I didn’t even need to ask for the pillow menu, though there is one). And every formal, uniformed member of staff seemed more attentive than the last.
The elongated rectangular shape of the building dictates that almost all the rooms are single-aspect, facing either due north or south. Book one of the latter if you can, and high up: the views are truly spectacular, past São Bento station, the cathedral and the River Douro, all the way to Vila Nova de Gaia on the other side – all under Porto’s typically dramatic skies.
The Astória restaurant is in a modern extension with a glass roof, dangling houseplants and an outdoor terrace (to be used only if you’re lucky with the Atlantic city’s changeable weather). Here you’ll find the real breakfast of champions: an impressive buffet spanning at least three groaning tables, including all the key components of a fry-up in a smart row of orange casserole pots. There are also excellent pastéis de nata, if you want to go Portuguese to start your day, and more cooked options to order at no extra cost; my eggs florentine were spot-on.
Any downsides? Well, there’s no swimming pool (though the wellness centre downstairs has a gym and a comprehensive menu of spa treatments) and the wifi was a tiny bit patchy on my visit.
Not everyone will want the five-star comforts of a place like this (shoehorns, shaving kits, the whole shebang), and certainly not everyone will be able to afford them. But for those who do (and can) the Intercontinental seems as safe a bet as they come. And honestly, it’s worth it just to spend time in such a beautiful, historic building. If only those old monks could see the place now.
Neighbourhood
The hotel faces right on to Porto’s grandest square. Neighbours include City Hall, the world’s most beautiful McDonald’s (in the art deco former Café Imperial), and the historic São Bento station: home to the city’s best chefs at Time Out Market Porto. It doesn’t get more central than this.
Nearby
Time Out Market Porto: for the best of the ‘Invincible City’ under one roof: 12 kitchens, two bars, five Michelin stars and a landmark tower designed by local hero Eduardo Souto de Moura. Don’t miss it!
Cozinha das Flores: for incredible food courtesy of Portuguese chef Nuno Mendes. He’s best known for his string of restaurants in London, but this is his first restaurant in Porto.
Portuguese Centre of Photography: for the past, present and future of Portuguese photography, in an atmospheric building that was once a notorious prison.
Time Out tip
Raining outside? Feeling footsore after tackling all those hills? No worries: head to the hotel’s wood-panelled, library-esque Cardosas bar for a martini or three – and live fado singers on Thursdays.
