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The traditional centre of Tokyo commerce has been re-energised of late. We bring you the best of the area, from Edo-era cuisine to brand-new shopping meccas
August 30, Harajuku
August 29, Shibuya
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If you were to give this shop an official label, it might be something like 'specialists in handmade silver'. If, however, you were to ask the owner what he specialises in, the answer might well be 'frogs'. That, after all, is what the overriding theme of Eruka is - the green hoppy critters are unavoidable. For lovers of handcrafts, though, this is home from home. Beyond the displays of assorted reptilian trinkets, you can see the master at work, and kids will delight in watching him hammer away, operating lathes and vices as if they were going out of fashion. On occasion, children are invited to join in and help knock something together, though this seems to be an ad hoc enterprise rather than something you can pre-book. Either way, the shop is close enough to Nezu Station to make it a nice first stop on your stroll around Yanaka.