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The traditional centre of Tokyo commerce has been re-energised of late. We bring you the best of the area, from Edo-era cuisine to brand-new shopping meccas
September 2, Harajuku
September 1, Harajuku
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Located in the depths of 'Yanesen', Negla is a charmingly haphazard junk shop with an eye for ageing but attractive bric a brac. The building itself is not easily identifiable, but you'll know when you've arrived as much of what's on sale spills out onto the forecourt. You may even catch the shop's proprietress dusting things down, in which case you'd be forgiven for thinking you'd slipped back a few decades. It's hard to say what the shop specialises in (antiquated crates, shelves, bottles, lamps, corner tables); file it under 'assorted household items from bygone days', and retire your cataloging mind. Hours can be spent browsing ye olde worlde of Negla - time well spent, indeed.