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Out of souvenir ideas? Consult our mini-guide to this retail wonder
December 22, Harajuku
December 21, Ebisu
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A large, brashly coloured store on the edge of Ginza, specializing in the art, music, food and crafts of Okinawa. The basement has more awamori (distilled Okinawan liquor) than you can shake a snake at, and there's even a little café area (and we do mean little) serving ice cream and particularly good sendagi donuts. For fans of the southern islands who can't get themselves there often enough.