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The traditional centre of Tokyo commerce has been re-energised of late. We bring you the best of the area, from Edo-era cuisine to brand-new shopping meccas
August 31, Harajuku
August 30, Harajuku
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The original UFO Club was a shortlived stronghold for the luminaries of London's late-'60s psychedelic rock scene. Its Koenji namesake is unlikely ever to see anyone of the stature of Pink Floyd or Soft Machine, but it can proudly claim to be just as cramped. It's a regular stop for the increasingly haggard members of Japan's own psychedelic rock scene, as well as many of Tokyo's stranger indie and punk bands.