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The traditional centre of Tokyo commerce has been re-energised of late. We bring you the best of the area, from Edo-era cuisine to brand-new shopping meccas
August 28, Harajuku
August 27, Harajuku
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Live venues don't get much more lo-fi than this. Muryoku Muzenji is squeezed into a cramped first-floor room under the railway tracks, and the PA is virtually non-existent. Factor in the idiot-savant decor and constant reminders of the owner's love of cats, and you've got the makings of a unique gig experience.