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The traditional centre of Tokyo commerce has been re-energised of late. We bring you the best of the area, from Edo-era cuisine to brand-new shopping meccas
September 2, Harajuku
September 1, Harajuku
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With seating for 250 people, this beer garden on the roof of Tokyu Department Store Shibuya Honten is the largest of its kind in the area. Don't go to Green Garden expecting verdant splendour – the name is a reference to the fact that there's a gardening store next-door, rather than that it's in the middle of a forest. Don't expect the all-you-can-drink offers found at other department store beer gardens: everything is paid for individually, which requires a trip to the counter each time you place an order. The suds selection includes a few bottled varieties and draft Kirin Ichiban Shibori, available in a regular-sized glass (¥550) or an enormous 800ml tankard (¥950), as well as in frozen form (¥750, limited to 70 per day). There's also a selection of cocktails and typically grotty food.