Despite Kaithong’s bubblegum-pink and stainless-steel brashness, there’s something Henry Ford black about this Shibuya newcomer: you can have any dish you like, as long as it’s Hainanese-style chicken rice (Khao Man Kai). There’s much to be said for sticking to what you do best, and the chicken rice here is very good – good enough to queue for (and you’ll probably have to). For ¥800 you get a plate of flavourful chicken poached until tender, perched atop a mound of aromatic Thai rice; plus a bowl of chicken broth, a soft drink, a fistful of fresh coriander and – the pièce de resistance – a little bowl of fiery, chilli-spiked dipping sauce that reveals its Thai ownership (and can be habit-forming). The original Kaithong has been a Bangkok institution since the ’60s, but this outlet of the Thai chain is the first in Tokyo. Find out what all the fuss is about – but don’t say we didn’t warn you if you find you just can’t get enough.
Meal for two with drinks: around ¥1,600