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The traditional centre of Tokyo commerce has been re-energised of late. We bring you the best of the area, from Edo-era cuisine to brand-new shopping meccas
September 2, Harajuku
September 1, Harajuku
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The wood-panneled walls and upright piano standing in one corner lend a distinctive feel to this compact basement venue, which has been a key part of the Koenji live music scene since 1984. Though the music always finishes by 11pm, Penguin House stays open as a bar until 3am, making it a perfect stop for a late-night drink if you've been gigging elsewhere.