Pizzeria da Peppe Napoli Sta' Ca"

Naples native Peppe (we're still not sure what his last name is) has been making pizzas professionally since he was 12, which gives him a significant edge over even Japan's most veteran pizzaioli. Based in Tokyo since 2006, he worked the ovens at Shinjuku's Spacca Napoli and Komazawa-Daigaku's La Bicocca on the way to opening his own restaurant in Kamiyacho at the end of 2011. There's only space for a couple of dozen people inside Napoli Sta' Ca", an intimate eatery with an open kitchen and walls festooned with shirts and scarves for the SSC Napoli football team. Weekday lunches will run you to ¥1,200 for a choice of three pizzas or pasta, plus soup, salad and tea or coffee. Our margherita comes drizzled with a rather good olive oil, and the base – chewy and liberally salted – has just enough stiffness to ensure that the topping doesn't slop onto our plates while we're eating. Just right, in other words.