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The traditional centre of Tokyo commerce has been re-energised of late. We bring you the best of the area, from Edo-era cuisine to brand-new shopping meccas
September 3, Harajuku
September 2, Harajuku
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Dark polished woods, nooks and crannies are the order of the day at the large Horiguchi shop directly opposite Chitose Funabashi station (the small chain also boasts outlets in Komae and Uehara). Not nearly as anal as some of the other coffee specialists we've uncovered recently, Horiguchi specializes in a few select blends, some rather special parfaits (try the coffee jelly one) and the kind of atmosphere that, coupled with a good book and a few spare hours, feels like a well-deserved treat. We'll be going again and again.