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Essential boutiques, plus the best book, music and souvenir stores
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May 23, Shimokitazawa
May 22, Harajuku
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The interior may look like a branch of Pronto – tackier, in fact – but Primoordine takes its coffee rather more seriously. They even run a grandiosely titled 'academy' to school newcomers in the art of pouring lattes and pulling the perfect shot, and in true Italian style, the espressos and cappuccinos are cheaper if you drink them standing at the counter. Coffee is only part of the draw here: there's a full food menu, with decent pastas and antipasti, indifferent pizzas, and a very tempting selection of desserts. Primoordine even has the sleep cycle of a neighborhood Italian bar: open in time for breakfast, and still going long after the last train has left.