Tokyo eel, Kansai-style

A popular Japanese custom, said to help one overcome the sweltering summer heat, is to eat eel on the midsummer day of the Ox – which this year happens to be on Monday July 26. The Japanese have come up with a number of different ways to indulge in this particularly nutritious food, however – when it comes to the day of the Ox – the most popular dish to indulge in is almost certainly kabayaki (eel that’s been split, grilled and basted with a sweet soy-based sauce), which more often than not comes served as either unaju (rice topped with kabayaki, served in a lacquered box) or unadon (rice topped with kabayaki, served in a bowl). Something less commonly known is that kabayaki can be prepared in one of either two different styles – Kanto-style or Kansai-style.

In the Kanto region, the eel is split along its back, grilled without seasoning, steamed to remove any oily residues, and then grilled again – leaving it easy to break apart with chopsticks and so soft that it almost melts in your mouth. On the other hand, in Kansai, the eel is split along its stomach, basted with sauce and grilled as is – leaving its skin crispy, its meat soft and delicate to the touch, and giving it a more succulent and concentrated flavour.

Kanto-style eel has a texture and flavour that’s is no less delicious, but when it comes to chowing down on eel in the hopes that it will help you get through the summer heat, it’s Kansai-style eel – with its sweet aroma and firmer texture, that you should go for. We rounded up five places that do Kansai eel in a Kanto shop; with the heat baking Tokyo lately, be sure to make reservations beforehand to avoid disappointment.

Aikawa (Takadanobaba)

Unaju Take ¥2,100

Aikawa specialises in eel and the most popular dish is their unaju, which comes in six different sizes – referred to by a ranking system that uses the Japanese words matsu (pine), take (bamboo), ume (plum), kiku (chrysanthemum), aoi (mallow), tsuru (crane), kame (turtle). As you move up the scale, from matsu to kame, the size of the eel increases – with tsuru and kame both including two whole eels. Aikawa’s specialty is their katayaki – whereby, for an extra ¥110 the shop will grill the eels using a special method that gives them an extra firm texture. At first glance you’d be forgiven for thinking that these katayaki eels are burnt, however, don’t be fooled by their appearance because rather than tasting bitter, this special cooking process makes the eels more aromatic and gives them a crispier skin and a lighter, more delicate centre. The sauce has a sweet yet clean flavour and the rice is of a good firm consistency. Other popular fares here include grilled eel livers and eel bone senbei (Japanese-style crackers).
(Full details & map)

Marutomi (Aomono-yokocho)

うな丼 1300円

The dish to try here is the unadon, which comes in two sizes – regular (¥1,300) and double (¥2,300). Plus, for an extra ¥50 you can also opt for extra rice with either size. Many customers drop by for takeout; however, since the shop is continuously grilling eels throughout the day it takes almost no time to be served should you choose to eat in. The eels here are fat and soft, and come grilled in a thick, particularly sweet sauce – and the rice is just the right consistency. If you’re looking for eel better than this, at a price and service time that’s comparable to here then you’ll be hard pushed to find it.
(Full details & map)

Inagiya (Nishi-Nippori)

Knasai-style Unaju Matsu ¥2,100

Inagiya can be found along Shinobazu-dori, about a ten-minute walk from Nishi-Nippori Station. In addition to a range of different eel items, including both Kansai and Kanto-style unaju, hitsumabushi (chopped and flavoured grilled eel with rice served in a special lacquered bowl called a hitsu) and shirayaki-don (plain, grilled eel on rice). The kabayaki served here is soft and airy, held together by a skin that gives it a firm bite and come basted in a sauce with a clean and simple flavour.
(Full details & map)

Hyotanya 1-Chome Ten (Ginza)

Unaju nami ¥1,700

Located behind Ginza Matsuzakaya, Hyotanya 1-Chome Ten uses plain wood in its interior design to give it a particularly minimal and simple feel. They provide mainly counter seats and offer a menu that includes four different sizes of unaju – nami (¥1,400 – served only at lunchtime), chu (¥1,700), jou (¥2,000) and tokujou (¥2,500). Other items on the menu include grilled eel livers, pickled vegetables and alcohol. After taking an order the staff busy themselves with preparing and grilling the order, which takes about ten minutes to complete. Plus, probably because they make everything to order, the eel here is slightly more tender and elastic than usual. The sauce is uncomplicated, and has a slightly spicy Kanto-style flavour. The unaju comes with a clear soup and pickled vegetables, and the kabayaki is basically made according to a recipe that only differs to that of the Kanto-style in that it isn’t steamed.
(Full details & map)

Koi to Unagi no Marumasuya Sohonten (Akabane)

Unaju nami ¥1,300

Koi to Unagi no Marumasuya Sohonten can be found not far from the east exit of Akabane Station, along Ichibangai shopping street. Open from 9am, it’s actually an izakaya (Japanese-style pub); however, they grill eels by the shop front – the aroma of which wafts down the street attracting customers – and serve a variety of dishes such as kabayaki, shirayaki (plain grilled eel), unadon and unaju. The kabayaki here comes basted in a unpretentious, uncluttered sauce, with crispy skin and meat that's plump and succulent. In addition to eel, they also serve koi carp, catfish and various other freshwater fish.
(Full details & map)