Setsubun in Tokyo

While the chilly temperatures may suggest otherwise, February 3 traditionally marks the start of spring in Japan. Known as Setsubun in Japan (literally, seasonal division), the day is marked with a distinctly spiritual kind of spring cleaning. Its most famous ritual is mamemaki, in which people drive evil spirits from their homes by throwing soybeans out of the door (or at a family member dressed as a demon) and shouting 'Oni wa soto! Fuku wa uchi!' (Demons out! Good luck in!). The ritual is repeated on a larger scale at many temples and shrines around town (see below), usually with a sizable celebrity contingent on hand to scatter that soy. It's then customary to eat a roll of makizushi while facing in the year's lucky direction – hence the dish's name, eho-maki (literally, lucky direction roll). These rolls are sold at supermarkets and convenience stores, and in 2012 you'll need to orient yourself in a north-northwesterly direction while eating.

Sensoji Temple, Asakusa

If you want to trace the origins of all this bean-throwing stuff, this is where to start: Sensoji Temple was the first place in Japan to hold a large-scale setsubun ceremony, bringing mass-market appeal to a ritual that had been practised since the Heian era. Around 10,000 people turn up each year to watch celebrities lob handfuls of soybeans at 4pm, although you might need to be as superannuated as the average Sensoji worshipper in order to recognise who most of them are.
From 2pm. 2-3-1 Asakusa, Taito-ku, Tokyo (03 3842 0181; www.senso-ji.jp). Transport: Asakusa Station (Ginza, Asakusa, Tobu Isesaki lines)
Sensoji Temple map

Kongoji Temple, Hino

On a typical year, you might see Hello Kitty throwing beans at this temple in the suburbs of western Tokyo. But that's not the only idiosyncrasy in Kongoji's setsubun celebrations: convinced that only righteous people would dare enter the temple precincts, they don't even bother to shout 'oni wa soto' here. It's just good fortune all the way...
Bean throwing at 10am, 11am, 1pm, 3pm & 4pm. 733 Takahata, Hino, Tokyo (042 591 0032; www.takahatafudoson.or.jp). Transport: Takahatafudo Station (Keio line, Tama Toshi Monorail)

Honmonji Temple, Ikegami

Pro wrestlers dominate the celebrity lineup at Honmonji, although Norifumi Yamamoto, Genichiro Tenryu, Naomichi Marufuji and co will have to share a podium with Ultraman Zero this year. Things get underway at 1pm, but the actual bean throwing ceremony doesn't start until 3pm.
1pm start. 1-1-1 Ikegami, Ota-ku, Tokyo (03 3752 2331; honmonji.jp). Transport: Ikegami Station (Tokyu Ikegami line)

Zojoji Temple, Shiba Koen

Well, it's certainly one of the cuter setsubun festivals you'll find in Tokyo. Zojoji Temple's ritual kicks off just before noon, and boasts kindergarteners in home-made period garb, costumed dogs, and a Q&A session between the tots and the demons themselves. The bean-throwing starts in earnest at 12.30pm.
11.45am start. 4-7-35 Shiba-Koen, Minato-ku, Tokyo (03 3432 143; www.zojoji.or.jp/en). Shiba-Koen Station (Mita line) or Daimon Station (Asakusa, Oedo lines)
Zojoji Temple map

Suitengu Shrine, Ningyocho

While many of Tokyo's shrines and temples let members of the public take part in the bean-throwing, Suitengu is one of the few that doesn't bilk you for the privilege (it's ¥3,000 for adults, ¥2,000 for children). The ceremonies are interspersed by performances of traditional kagura dancing and live music from Kamen Rider singer Shinichi Ishihara.
3pm start (bean throwing at 3.15pm & 4.45pm). 2-4-1 Nihonbashi-Kakigaracho, Chuo-ku, Tokyo (03 3666 7195; www.suitengu.or.jp). Transport: Suitengumae Station (Hanzomon line) or Ningyocho Station (Hibiya, Asakusa lines)

Tokyo Tower, Shiba Koen

One of the most bizarre spectacles you'll see on setsubun takes place on the 150m observatory deck of Tokyo's cherished Eiffel Tower rip-off, where a priest from the neighbouring Zozoji Temple is joined by the tower's cone-headed Noppon mascots in a quick spot of bean-throwing. When they're done, you can buy some eho-maki from a stall on the same floor.
10.45am start. 4-2-8 Shiba-Koen, Minato-ku, Tokyo (03 3433 5111; www.tokyotower.co.jp/english). Transport: Kamiyacho station (Hibiya line), Onarimon Station (Mita line) or Akebanebashi Station (Oedo line)
Tokyo Tower map