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The traditional centre of Tokyo commerce has been re-energised of late. We bring you the best of the area, from Edo-era cuisine to brand-new shopping meccas
September 2, Harajuku
September 1, Harajuku
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'Alternative' sounds just about right for this musical potpourri. Held at the spacious Studio Coast, Alternative Tokyo corrals together some established left-of-centre acts from the domestic music scene, among them sprawling butoh big band Shibusashirazu Orchestra, long-running art rockers Little Creatures and post-hardcore jokers Zazen Boys. Salyu x Salyu – in which J-pop singer Salyu and Keigo 'Cornelius' Oyamada audaciously recreate last year's S(o)und(d)beams album with a live band – is well worth checking out, and spare a thought for youthful singer-songwriter Sachie Hidaka, who risks being overlooked in favour of the better known artists.