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The traditional centre of Tokyo commerce has been re-energised of late. We bring you the best of the area, from Edo-era cuisine to brand-new shopping meccas
August 31, Harajuku
August 30, Harajuku
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Painter and printmaker James Ensor (1860-1949) had a soft spot for the grotesque. The Flemish-Belgian artist's early work was deemed too scandalous by late-19th century audiences – which, perhaps, shouldn't be too surprising for pieces in which sarcasm and scatology were recurring themes. Belatedly recognised as a precursor to surrealism and expressionism, Ensor is given the full treatment at this show, which boasts 50 key works alongside pieces by some of his contemporaries.