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The traditional centre of Tokyo commerce has been re-energised of late. We bring you the best of the area, from Edo-era cuisine to brand-new shopping meccas
September 1, Harajuku
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Unwanted toys are given a new home by Hiroshi Fuji, who's spent the past decade fashioning huge sculptures from the detritus of childhood. Though he's already a permanent resident at 3331 Arts Chiyoda, which devotes a corner of its premises to Fuji's work, the eco-minded installation artist is scaling things up for this summer solo exhibition. Central Kaeru Station draws on the 50,000 toys that he's been donated since starting his 'kaekko' project 13 years ago, with a silent auction for some of the works on display.