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The traditional centre of Tokyo commerce has been re-energised of late. We bring you the best of the area, from Edo-era cuisine to brand-new shopping meccas
September 2, Harajuku
September 1, Harajuku
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When taiko drumming ensemble Kodo announced that they had appointed kabuki veteran Tamasaburo Bando as their new artistic director, the news wasn't to everyone's liking. Bando rankled some of the core Kodo fanbase with his 2009 production, Dadan (lit. 'men drumming'), which clad the group's members in glittery necklaces and sequined T-shirts alongside their trademark loincloths. If you missed the show first time around, you can catch a reprise performance in Tokyo this summer, at the start of a national tour that will see Kodo play in kabuki theatres as well as more typical concert halls.