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The traditional centre of Tokyo commerce has been re-energised of late. We bring you the best of the area, from Edo-era cuisine to brand-new shopping meccas
August 30, Harajuku
August 29, Shibuya
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In the five-year gap between 2006 album The Open Door and last year's self-titled follow-up, Evanescence lost almost all of their members and reportedly flirted with both Celtic music and electronica. Not that you'd know it from listening to Evanescence, which repeats the multi-million-selling operatic goth metal format of the group's previous two records. Vocalist Amy Lee – the sole original member – possesses an impressive set of pipes, but sooner or later, surely, she's going to have to grow up and move on. Support comes from Evanescence-aping Japanese band Dazzle Vision.